An interesting development in the world of insulation: http://ocenergycomplete.com/. I've not yet done any testing on this new system. Clearly we've come a long way when this industry giant so publicly acknowledges the impact of reducing air leakage. If anyone has direct experience with this system, I'd love to hear more!

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Thermally Yours,

John
ASNT NDT Level III #48166
The Snell Group
www.thesnellgroup.com
www.thermalsolutions.org
800-636-9820

I looked at the literature on this EnergyComplete. Basically, it consists of a proprietary, eco-friendly, very low expansion foam that Owens-Corning is using as a high-tech caulking to air seal gaps in the exterior walls before adding the same-old fiberglass batts. The literature makes a bunch of claims, but you have to read them carefully:

     - "Unlike traditional spray foam, the Owens Corning EnergyComplete™ Whole Home Insulation and Air Sealing System uses a patents pending material during installation." - This is a brilliant statement! If you are using their system, then you are obviously not using any other system or material!

  When used with a filtered mechanical air exchanger as recommended, the EnergyComplete™ system may help improve indoor air quality by helping to seal out allergens and pollutants to create a healthier indoor environment.

The sealant also helps prevent moisture from entering walls to reduce conditions that can lead to mold growth. And by blocking gaps and holes, you will have a first line of defense against the insects, rodents and other pests that can cause health problems for your family.

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Brad Cook
Building Performance Services LLC
Warren, Vermont
Level I Thermographer
Home Performance Contractor

Apparently, one of my wandering fingers on my small keyboard hit a key that sent my last reply before I had finished it. By the time I finished editing the post, my editing time had expired.

I am not going to re-write everything that I had typed (and is now lost in cyberspace), but I will say that this EnergyComplete is nothing more than an expensive caulk (foam) used in conjunction with the same fiberglass insulation products that have been around for years. Fiberglass has a lot of drawbacks, the biggest one being that air moves right through it. Air sealing alone saves energy. If you don't air seal first, before installing fiberglass, rock wool, loose cellulose, etc., air will move through the insulation and make it much less effective. Caulking, one-part or two-part foam all work for air sealing. So, on that front it is good that Owens-Corning is now promoting air sealing, but are builders going to air seal the ceilings after the sheetrock is installed? Probably not.

Fiberglass does not work very well if it is not snug on all 6 sides, which is often not done in knee-walls, behind tub/showers, on band-joists and where thinner batts do not fill a rafter bay. It does not work well when the facing is inset-stapled or strapping is installed over the facing before adding sheetrock. Fiberglass can be an economical and effective choice for insulation, but only when proper air sealing is done first and the insulation is installed properly, paying close attention to details.

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Brad Cook
Building Performance Services LLC
Warren, Vermont
Level I Thermographer
Home Performance Contractor

Yes, I agree. I remain unconvinced and wonder if the traditional cost advantage FG has had in the past will not disappear when air sealing is added to the mix. Dense pack cellulose still seems like a bargain and a great performer.

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Thermally Yours,

John
ASNT NDT Level III #48166
The Snell Group
www.thesnellgroup.com
www.thermalsolutions.org
800-636-9820

I agree with what Brad said.

I think it should be noted the fiberglass because of the air movement has the ability to dry out if is gets wet. Also for maintenace purposes it is always easier to work with or around fiberglass in comparison with other products.

When installed correctly fiberglass is an excellent product. For proper installation a QII inspection and well trained contractor is needed.

Glen Gallo

HERS Rater

Level I Theromgraphic training

Looks like a great product. At first I thought it was another form of the expandable foam, kind of like great stuff.  I find that stuff very conductive. I like this stuff so far. I have to see it in action before making any final calls. I have a pic of a 2 year old home that has the expandable foam in it. But not sure how to get it posted.  It amazing how it conducts.

 

What do you mean by expandable foam is "conductive"?

 To attach a picture when posting or replying to a post, click on the "Attachments & Options" tab and then "Add an update"

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Brad Cook
Building Performance Services LLC
Warren, Vermont
Level I Thermographer
Home Performance Contractor

Here is one pic I am talking about. He had a door framed in as you can see and then decided to not put one there after the insulation was sprayed in, and just used a fiberglass batt there. You can see the difference in the two insulations.  He is not happy about the spray-in foams either but was convinced it was better.  The loose fill blow-in cellulose (I believe it is) is much better than that.  It just seems to me that the expandable spray foam is "more" conductive than any other insulation on the market.

Here is another image as well.  This house has wood cathedral ceilings and should have had the typical insulation in this area but not quite sure.  Looks like a lot of air-wash to me. The outside air temp was 29deg and the inside around 70.

Rule #1- you have to look at the whole picture.

In your first photo it appears that the area to the right was the intended doorway, and it does appear warmer. What I don't know is what is in the wall or how deep the wall is. If I had to guess, I would guess that the original wall was a 2x6 stud wall with "flash and batt" or a thin layer of foam sprayed on the outside to air seal and the cavity sloppily filled with fiberglass batts. Were the batts 5 1/2" or 3 1/2" thick? If the foam is not nice and even there will be voids and air gaps resulting in uneven insulation. If the doorway area was very carefully filled with fiberglass batt only, it could perform better.I would also want to know if the spray foam is a closed-cell or open-cell foam. The former is a vapor barrier with an R-value of about R-6.5/inch while the latter is not a vapor barrier and has an R-value of around R-3.5/inch.

I have the same questions about the second photo of the cathedral ceiling. Again, if I had to guess I would guess that there is fiberglass batt in the rafter bays. That cold area does look like air washing through voids or gaps in fiberglass. I can just make out what appear to be joints between what may be T&G pine installed across the bottom of the rafters. It would be interesting to look at that ceiling with a blower door running to see of that air will leak right through the grooves. I also note that the left side of the ceiling appears warmer than the right, and the roof is 2-3 degrees warmer than the wall but the lower part of the wall appears to be as warm as the ceiling.

Each insulation has its pros and cons:   A -Foam is sprayed before interior finishes (such as  sheetrock) are installed; it has a high R-value per inch; it is an air barrier/sealer and may be a vapor barrier.   B -Cellulose can be sprayed in an open cavity or it can be pumped into a closed cavity. If installed to a density of 3.4 lbs/cu.ft., it will stop air flow; it is not a moisture barrier; it has an R-value of about R-3.4-3.6/inch.   C -Fiberglass only works when carefully installed (no voids) and is snug on all 6 sides; it is about R-3.4/inch. What works in Tennessee may not work in Vermont.For example, if you "flash and batt" with less than about 2" of foam on the outside of the wall, you will get condensation in the wall in winter. A thin layer of foam would probably work in Tennessee.                

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Brad Cook
Building Performance Services LLC
Warren, Vermont
Level I Thermographer
Home Performance Contractor